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Walls Soundproofing Guide

Please find the following information for tips and guide to help with the main aspects of wall soundproofing installations.

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   Wall System 1:    3cm Direct to wall system.

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  • Ensure that the wall you are fixing to is able to carry the weight load and any loose plaster/holes are filled providing a flat, stable surface. All skirting boards, coving, cornice etc should also be removed. 

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  • Radiators should be removed with pipe feeds extended and capped to allow for the new wall depth. Electrical sockets to be removed and wiring to be safe (via Wago connectors) until installation is complete. 

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  • Place the MuteBoard onto a 5mm packer and keep a 5mm gap around the wall and ceilings to reduce flanking between the boards and adjacent walls.

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  • Using a hammer drill, pilot a 6mm hole approximately 70mm into the board and wall and repeat the process 16 times per 1200 x 1200 sheet and check for solid fixings.  Use 70mm x 7.2 concrete frame fixings for best results. 

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  • Seal all gaps with acoustic sealant.

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  • The wall is now ready for plastering. 

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  • Total system depth approx 30 mm

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** Please note that cutting is best performed with jigsaw, handsaw and circular saws (outside cutting or extraction advised). 

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Wall System 2: Clip and channel system mechanically fixed.

  • Start by checking for any holes in the brickwork are sealed with acoustic sealant, and the structural integrity of the wall is not compromised in any way. Any loose or missing bricks should be replaced and any gaps sealed.

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  • If 'dot and dab' technique for the fitting of the plasterboard has been installed then this should be removed as this will in many cases be the cause of the resonating sound. 

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  • If possible lift floorboards and access any loft space above and fill with acoustic grade mineral wall to minimise flanking paths of sound.

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  • To start the installation of the clips, measure approximately 70 mm from the floor upwards marking both ends of the wall before joining the marks with a chalk line or laser guide. 

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  • Repeat this process in multiples of 600 mm (ie 600 mm, 1200mm, 1800mm etc) from the floor up until you reach the ceiling, leaving no more than 50 mm between the final clip and channel to minimise movement.

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  • Check that the clips are well secured using a brown 7mm plug and 50 x 5 mm gold wood screw and check each clip individually for a tight and secure fixing. The holes should be piloted pre-plug using an electric drill and bit. 

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  • Each clip should be installed no more than 40 mm from both the left and right hand sides of the walls to minimise movement at each terminal point. 

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  • Using the contact spray adhesive, evenly spray one side of the mineral wool and the bare wall to prime ready for the mineral wool to be fitted between the furring channels. 

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  • The wall is now ready for the first layer of plasterboard. Ensure that the boards are not touching the floor, flanking walls and ceiling. This can be done by using a 4 mm packing shim. 

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  • Once the board is fixed via mechanical fixings into the channels any gaps around the perimeter or between the boards should be filled with acoustic sealant. 

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  •  When the boards are securely fixed to the channels the Tecsound membrane can now be adhered to the surface. This is best managed by cutting 30-40 mm more than the floor to ceiling length in size and positioning close to the area either left or right hand side and working across the wall much like how wallpaper would be hung. Lifting the Tecsound and peeling off around 300 mm of the film on the back slowly work from the top down carefully peeling off the film as you go. Be careful not to overlap the membrane as this will cause a discrepancy on the final layer of the plasterboard. If the Tecsound should overlap then be sure to cut off the excess with a sharp knife. 

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  • The wall is now ready for the second layer of plasterboard. Ensure that the boards are not touching the floor, flanking walls and ceiling. This can be done by using a 4 mm packing shim. 

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  • Once the wall is securely fixed to the channels then the wall is now ready for plastering. 

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  • Total system depth approx 70 mm

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Wall System 3: Independent Timber frame systemClip and channel system mechanically fixed.

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  • Start by checking for any holes in the brickwork are sealed with acoustic sealant, and the structural integrity of the wall is not compromised in any way. Any loose or missing bricks should be replaced and any gaps sealed.

​

  • If 'dot and dab' technique for the fitting of the plasterboard has been installed then this should be removed as this will in many cases be the cause of the resonating sound. 

​

  • If possible lift floorboards and access any loft space above and fill with acoustic grade mineral wall to minimise flanking paths of sound.

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  • Now construct a timber stud frame from 3 x 2 timber using the rubber isolation strip around the top, bottom and sides to separate the timber from the walls, floor and ceiling. Timber studs should be no more than 600 mm centres. 

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  • To start the installation of the clips, measure approximately 70 mm from the floor upwards marking both ends of the wall before joining the marks with a chalk line or laser guide. 

​

  • Repeat this process in multiples of 600 mm (ie 600 mm, 1200mm, 1800mm etc) from the floor up until you reach the ceiling, leaving no more than 50 mm between the final clip and channel to minimise movement.

​

  • Check that the clips are well secured using a brown 7mm plug and 50 x 5 mm gold wood screw and check each clip individually for a tight and secure fixing. The holes should be piloted pre-plug using an electric drill and bit. 

​

  • Each clip should be installed no more than 40 mm from both the left and right hand sides of the walls to minimise movement at each terminal point. 

​

  • Using the contact spray adhesive, evenly spray one side of the mineral wool and the bare wall to prime ready for the mineral wool to be fitted between the furring channels. 

​

  • The wall is now ready for the first layer of plasterboard. Ensure that the boards are not touching the floor, flanking walls and ceiling. This can be done by using a 4 mm packing shim. 

​

  • Once the board is fixed via mechanical fixings into the channels any gaps around the perimeter or between the boards should be filled with acoustic sealant. 

​

  •  When the boards are securely fixed to the channels the Tecsound membrane can now be adhered to the surface. This is best managed by cutting 30-40 mm more than the floor to ceiling length in size and positioning close to the area either left or right hand side and working across the wall much like how wallpaper would be hung. Lifting the Tecsound and peeling off around 300 mm of the film on the back slowly work from the top down carefully peeling off the film as you go. Be careful not to overlap the membrane as this will cause a discrepancy on the final layer of the plasterboard. If the Tecsound should overlap then be sure to cut off the excess with a sharp knife. 

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  • The wall is now ready for the second layer of plasterboard. Ensure that the boards are not touching the floor, flanking walls and ceiling. This can be done by using a 4 mm packing shim. 

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  • Once the wall is securely fixed to the channels then the wall is now ready for plastering. 

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  • Total system depth approx 140 mm

If you do require any assistance or have any technical questions please don't hesitate to contact us on 01462-222-123

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